Determination of Style
‘Imbued with the colour of purple sunsets...’
No grape variety is so obviously influenced by the particularities of soil and climate as is Syrah. This is its challenge and its charm, for the winegrower has the opportunity to make a wine that truly reflects the nature of the vineyard (the ‘terroir’) and the wine buyer has the pleasure of anticipating new complexities in each encounter.
Soil influences fruit flavour and mouth feel. Climate influences the speed of ripening and hence the development of anthocyanins and tannins. Most significantly, late season temperatures determine the critical ripening curve which has more influence on final aroma and complexity than any other factor.
‘...and perfumed with the scent of violets and raspberries.’
At the extremes Syrah provides two very different wine styles:
One is bright, light red in colour with a slightly herbaceous nose hinting at mint and pale red berry fruits; the body and finish are light. The other is deep red tending to tawny with a nose and palate of dark, jammy fruits (plums and mulberries), black pepper and eucalyptus or tar.
But these are the extremes: the first example is unripe and the second example is over-ripe. In between there are differing degrees of ripeness which can provide extraordinary nuances of aroma and flavour with levels of stylistic elegance and complexity not found in any other variety:
Red roses and violets, freshly-cracked black peppercorns and spice; cassis, raspberries, blackberries, cherries and plums;
full bodied with moderate acidity and strong ripe tannins.
This is Syrah at its very best, and to achieve that level it must be growing in the right place
Right: Fresh berry fruits and flowers in the markets at Rungis outside Paris encapsulate the delicate bouquet of a fine Cote Rotie.
Above: Australia’s iconic Penfolds
Grange is from the hotter
growing regions of South
Australia. Part blended with
Cabernet Sauvignon and aged
in new American oak, it sits at
one extreme of the
Syrah/Shiraz style range,
wholly different to the wines of
the Northern Rhône.
Syrah wines are most clearly influenced by the average
mean temperatures during the last month of ripening. An average mean
daily temperature (maximum + minimum ÷ 2) of less than 16°C is
sub-optimal and will result in unripe fruit. A ripening month greater
than 22°C average will lead to over-ripe, cooked-fruit flavours. The
optimum mean temperature for the desired aroma characters lies between
19 and 21°C. (J. Gladstone, G.Kelly et al.)
It should be noted that these are mean temperatures. The lower the temperature range the more even is the development of tannins and phenolics. Extremes of daytime temperature, irrespective of low night time temperatures, will produce hot climate characteristics and an imbalance between phenolic maturity and acid levels.
