The Wines

Syrah in New Zealand

"The perfect grape needs to find the perfect home."

 

It was long considered that Syrah was for hot climates only and that New Zealand would struggle to ripen it. This view took no account of the climate comparisons with the Rhone Valley and seems to have been solely influenced by the performance of Shiraz in the cauldron of the Barossa Valley. Then, in 1984, Dr Alan Limmer of Stonecroft Wines in Hawkes Bay rescued some vines from the Te Kauwhata Research Station (which may have been originally imported by James Busby in the early 1800s). His success with the variety led other Hawkes Bay growers to experiment also.

By 2008, Syrah had provided the Competition Trophy winner two years running at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards and producers like Craggy Range, Vidals, Bilancia La Collina, Villa Maria and Church Road were winning many international awards with wines that reflected the best characteristics of the Northern Rhone styles. 

 

Stylistically comparable to Cote Rotie and Crozes Hermitage, these wines were totally different in character to Australian Shiraz. Heat, as in ‘Hot Climate’, was not, therefore, the determinant of quality. 

Whether from the Gimblett Gravels, the Havelock Hills or (in the case of the frequent Gold Medal winner, Passage Rock Vineyard) the maritime coast of Waiheke Island, it was soon realised that this was a variety that could perform as well or better than in its country of origin - in the right circumstances. Yet, in 2008, the total area planted in New Zealand was only 277 hectares and represented less than 1% of the country’s grape production.

Syrah, more than any other variety, reflects the terroir in which it is grown. It is far from happy everywhere and quickly lets the vineyard owner know. It is sensitive to wind and wet, humidity and rich soils. It prefers warmth and a lean growing environment. Wherever it is grown the resultant wine will express its opinion, both as to place and to viticultural practice.